Jack Bushko is a legendary waterman on Long Beach Island, a great windsurfing artist, and just a great bloke. We would consult the tide charts the night before a predicted Nor'easter and begin the preparation for the next day's assault. To this day we are not clear whether we were the assaulters or the assaulted; on the best days we were a little of both.
The best spot for launching in a Nor'easter is at the Barnegat Light inlet in the lee of the South jetty. Here there would be shelter from the river-like current and the shore break would be relatively manageable. That was the good news. The bad news was it was the widest part of the beach on all of Long Beach Island which meant that EVERYTHING that you would need for a day of sailing had to be schlepped the 400 or 500 some yards to the water's edge. Here is a brief list of necessities: a rigged sail (better rig the right size!), board, wetsuit, harness, a bottle of water. Doesn't sound like much? Oh I forgot to tell you. The wind is already blowing 25 knots +, there is a sandstorm blowing across the beach that will scour you, and you have to make the walk IN your wetsuit (no cheating!). Forget a little something like "the universal" that joins your sail to your board, a batten, a replacement harness line, or a fin screw and you have to walk up and back again in the howling wind at which point you are practically spent.
There is a sandy reef that runs diagonally from the South monument, about a half mile out, to a spot down beach near the old wreck. When you've seen and heard the waves breaking in a white tumult on this reef and seen the currents sweep by at 3-4 knots you will understand how Barnegat Light inlet is the second most dangerous inlet on the East Coast after Hatteras, NC. The mast of the old wreck that used to poke out of the sand was only one of dozens, maybe hundreds claimed by these waters. More than a century ago unscrupulous locals would lure naive sailors to these treacherous waters by lighting bonfires on the beach. Piracy was a large and accepted part of the local economy.
Stepping off a perfectly good and safe beach and onto a windsurfer in these conditions is accompanied by intensified emotions. An experienced wave sailor learns quickly to relax: relax your arms, relax your hands, relax your shoulders, relax your feet, but most of all relax your MIND. The littlest bit of extraneous energy spent in rigidity will quickly drain one of physical energy and leave you sucking wind on the beach. I know it sounds weird, but if you can put a semi smile on your face it really helps.
Speeding across the water with a rooster tail 20 feet behind, the black green sea is a mogul field of mast high waves with deep troughs. Some waves you jump, you drop off the back of others, and some you just plain avoid. And then there is that moment when you recognize that you are holding the wind in your hands and the sea is at your feet and you are at the nexus of great elemental forces. I can testify that at this moment the mind is on the razor's edge of the NOW. The senses become extraordinarily sharp and time actually slows down.
Riding a jacked up wave towards the beach is the best. There are broad, smooth spots in front of these waves at low tide that allow for bottom turns, cut backs, and then speedy jibes just yards off the beach. When the tide began rising the conditions would quickly turn into to pure chaos. The flat spots in front of waves would just disappear. The organization of waves, know as "sets" would degrade into washing machine-like heaving. The shore break would deny access- one attempt after another. At this point Jack and I would haul our gear back on the beach and watch the latecomers struggle with the now impossible conditions. Meanwhile, intrepid anglers standing on the edge of the beach with their lines in the water must have thought us mad to be out in these conditions. What a brilliant madness!


